Corinto

Corinto was the port of call on my second and subsequent visits to Nicaragua. The main port in Nicaragua, Corinto was the main entry point for imports. What was evident was the absence of trade of any kind, thanks to the US led embargo. Corinto was much larger and much less personal and friendly than San Juan del Sur. The only thing notable was the nice white beach, protected from the Pacific by a man made breakwater. I spent many a time both on the beach, and in the water, looking across the expense of the Pacific, pondering over how far I was from home.

Corinto Beach, 1985

Sunrise over Corinto, 1985

Volcán San Cristóbal

Rivas, Nicaragua

Early one Sunday morning, two others and myself decided to venture inland to Rivas, although technically, our movement within Nicaragua was restricted to San Juan del Sur. Catching a rickety bus, complete with the paraphernalia of live chickens and farm produce being transported to the market in Rivas. Crawling up through the rolling hills which up to then, only made an impression as the back drop to the inland view of San Juan del Sur from the bay.  A magnificent sight greeted the approach to the part of the road which ran along Lake Nicaragua – that of the two volcanoes of Ometepe Island rising in the lake, a large freshwater body, which was home to a few active volcanoes and what was once thought to be a freshwater species of sharks.  The sharks were found to be bull sharks that could cross the rapids of San Juan river in making their way from the Caribbean.

Located within reach of Lake Nicaragua, Rivas struck me as a large market town. An old Spanish colonial church dominated the town. A large dusty clearing served as the bus station as well as a meeting point of sorts. I don’t quite remember where the makeshift bull ring was in relation to the bus station, but make it there we did. A large crowd had gathered in the stands surrounding the bull ring for the weekly event. Touted as a bull fight, it seem more of a rodeo, than my impressions of bullfights influenced by what I had seen and read of the colourful mainstream version of the land of the Conquistadors. The highlight of the event, was the rodeo like riding of bulls, amidst the loud cheers of the spectators, punctured by the youthful shouts of “Enchiladas” , “Bebidas” and I can’t really remember what else. We stayed until the evening, absorbing the carnival like atmosphere, which seemed so surreal in the midst of the dire situation that the country was in.

The Clearing that served as the Bus Station, Rivas, 23 Dec 1984.

Iglesia Parroquial de Rivas.

San Juan del Sur

There is an idyllic bay in some far flung corner of the world I spent some three weeks at, which had some of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. Clear blue waters and a wide sandy beach lined with wooden beach side cafes, San Juan del Sur in Nicaragua seemed like paradise, particularly with the exchange rate on got on the black market for the US Dollar which was controlled by a leftist leaning government that came to power on the back of a bloody revolution fueled by a intense resentment excesses of the US supported dictatorship of Anastasio Somoza (Jr). As a result, the locally brewed Cerveza Victoria cost something like 10 cents a bottle, a bottle of the local rum went for something that translated to maybe $2, and a plate of Langostino grilled to perfection and served with a generous serving of plantain prepared as we would french fries, and fresh salad, cost maybe $1.50.

Las Lugos Restaurant Receipt, Dec 1984.

Evidence of the Revolution was everywhere … the uniformed soldiers, the murals of the revolutionary figurehead, an Augusto César Sandino, who had led an unsuccessful attempt to overthrow Somoza’s father, the senior Anastasio Somoza in the early 20th century, and the black and red flags of the FSLN, the Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional, of the Sandinista Front for National Liberation, named after Sandino, and numerous walls scarred with bullet holes.

The Beach, San Juan del Sur

The Beach, San Juan del Sur

The hardship caused by the economic sanctions imposed by the Ronald Reagan led Presidency was also very evident. Even basic neccessities such as soap and toothpaste was in short supply. Shelves of the few shops I found would seem like how Mother Hubbard’s  cupboard would have appeared to her poor dog. What made up for the dire situation the people were in was the warmth they exhibited. Somehow, admidst the hardship and poverty, there was also hope for a brighter future promised by the Revolution. Also, for the first time, I witnessed how, with so little in life (from a material standpoint), people were happier – thankful for the little that they have. The local beverage, referred to as Refresco, made from pureed melons, sweetened and served with ice, was a nice discovery I made, particularly refreshing in the muggy climes of the tropics.

Sunset over the Bay, San Juan del Sur

Sunset over the Bay, San Juan del Sur, 22 Dec 1984

Sunset over the Bay, San Juan del Sur, Christmas 1984

Sunset over the Bay, San Juan del Sur, 5 Jan 1985