Merchants of misery

12 04 2022

The import, sale and distribution of opium contributed to a rather shameful episode in the history of modern Singapore. Cultivated in India by the (dis)Honourable East India Company to address the imbalance in trade, opium was became the scourge of China through the dependence it developed amongst its citizens. The drug was also distributed in Singapore up to the end of the Second World War. The Straits Settlements government would maintain a monopoly on its distribution, reaping a huge reward in terms of revenue from it.

A chandu shop, 1941 (Harrison Forman Collection, University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee).

Opium consigned those who developed a dependence on it to a life of misery, poverty and loneliness; a life that we are able to visualise through a series of photographs taken by two American photographers, Carl Mydans for LIFE Magazine and Harrison Forman for National Geographic, in 1941. The photographs also provide a glimpse of the elaborate mechanism that was put in place to maintain the government’s hold on the monopoly of distribution. A government run packing plant at the foot of what is today Bukit Chandu is featured, as are the Government Chandu Shops — officially sanctioned opium retail outlets, initially through which the opium revenue farmers sold the drug and after 1910, taken over by the government.

People from all walks of life were addicted. For coolies, the drug often allowed them to work beyond the barrier of pain. While they may have been able to earn more this way, much of what they gained would be channelled back into the consumption of opium. [Photograph: © Time Inc. for which Personal and Non-Commercial Use is permitted].
The counter of a chandu shop, 1941 (Harrison Forman Collection, University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee).
The counter of a chandu shop, 1941 (Harrison Forman Collection, University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee).
A smoker registration card. Smoker registration was introduced in 1929 following the Geneva Convention on Opium to minimise the numbers of new addicts. [Photograph: © Time Inc. for which Personal and Non-Commercial Use is permitted]

A life of loneliness


More views of the Government Chandu Shops


Raids

Raids on opium dens were regularly carried out in an attempt to put a stop to illegal (non-registered) smokers of opium and smuggled opium.


The Chandu Factory (Packing Plant) at the foot of Bukit Chandu


Photographs:
Carl Mydans, © Time Inc. for which Personal and Non-Commercial Use is permitted.
Harrison Forman Collection, University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee


Singapore and Opium

Set up by the Honourable East India Company (HEIC) in 1819 as its emporium at the maritime crossroads between East and West Asia, modern Singapore lay at the heart of the trade between India and China in the early 19th century. Silks, porcelain and tea from China made their journey westwards through Singapore. Opium, cultivated in India, was sent to China in increasing quantities. While the HEIC may have lost its control over the opium trade in 1834, and Singapore its position as the main entrepôt for trade to China in 1842 with the ceding of Hong Kong to Britain, opium continued to pass through and also come to Singapore with the domestic consumption of it being a major revenue earner into the 1900s.

The sale and distribution of opium, or chandu, within Singapore (and Malaya) was indeed highly lucrative. A monopoly was maintained by the government, who assigned the rights to distribute the drug and collect tax to its agents through a revenue farm system. Retail was carried out through government chandu shops run by a franchisee, whose profits on sales following the deduction of rents and overheads paid to the government, was theirs to keep. Revenue farms were also established for the distribution of pork and liquor, and for gambling. These so-called farms were certainly a cash-cow for “farmers”, who made a fair amount of money, which often provided the capital to invest in property and to diversify into other businesses.

Opposition to the rather illicit trade grew towards the end of the 19th century. In 1906, Imperial China embarked on an ambitious ten-year plan to prohibit the cultivation and use of opium, helped by a pledge to gradually reduce the supply of Indian opium to China by the progressive Liberal government in Britain. At the urging of the United States, the International Opium Commission met in Shanghai in 1909. The meeting was to kickstart a process that would culminate in the regulation of use of the drug and its production. In response to the 1929 Geneva Convention on Opium, smoker registration was introduced in Singapore and Malaya. While the sale and use of opium would be made illegal after the Second World War, the complete eradication of the habit in Singapore would take many more years.


Description of Opium Treatment in Singapore in the 1950s
https://www.unodc.org/unodc/en/data-and-analysis/bulletin/bulletin_1957-01-01_3_page004.html

Before war broke out in Malaya in 1941, the use and sale of opium was controlled as a government monopoly. An addict, having been examined by a medical officer and duly certified, was registered and then permitted to purchase an allowance of opium from a government shop. It was the policy of the monopoly to bring about a gradual reduction in the consumption of opium by addicts in accordance with the provisions of The Hague Convention, of 1912, and of the Geneva Opium Agreement of 11 February 1925, the recommendations of the League of Nations Commission to the Straits Settlements in 1929,*and the Bangkok Agreement of 1931. The registers were finally closed, except for medical cases, on 31 December 1934. In 1927, sales of opium through the monopoly totalled 30,000 lb. By 1935, they were reduced to 19,000 lb., and by 1938 to 15,000 lb. At the time of the Japanese invasion in 1942, there were 16,552 addicts on the Singapore registers, while in the Federation of Malaya the figure was probably quadrupled. During the Japanese occupation of this country from 1942 to 1945, the registers were ignored, and anyone who could pay for it was allowed to smoke. The campaign since 1925 to promote gradual reduction of opium consumption was thus largely nullified, and as opium addiction was openly encouraged, the number of smokers alive today can only be conjectured.

From the liberation of Singapore in September 1945, no opium was purchased or sold by the Government of Singapore, and all shops were closed. In February 1946, an Opium and Chandu Proclamation declared a total prohibition of the sale and use of opium except for medicinal purposes. In 1951, this proclamation was superseded by the Dangerous Drugs Ordinance, prohibiting the import, export, possession, manufacture or sale of opium. Any person contravening these provisions was liable to a fine not exceeding 10,000 Malayan dollars or imprisonment for a period not exceeding five years, or both. The use of premises, the possession of utensils for the administration of opium, and the consumption of prepared opium, were also punishable under the law. The customs and police departments were responsible for the enforcement of these provisions, the former being organized the better to prevent the import of opium by sea, air or land, while the police dealt with internal peddling, and endeavoured to suppress the opium divans. The customs department also operated – on behalf of enforcement authorities in the Malayan area – a Central Narcotics Intelligence Bureau for the dissemination and exchange of information on the traffic.

It was noted that many addicts, imprisoned for opium or other offences, showed a marked improvement in health as a result of prison routine, diet and treatment for their physical ailments, and it was decided that as an experiment a special penal institution for the treatment of addicts should be opened. Part of the quarantine station on St. John’s Island was selected for the purpose, because it offered a complete change of surroundings and living conditions and, as traffic to and from the island is controlled, a reasonable prospect of denying opium to the inmates.

The necessary legislation for the Opium Treatment Centre was enacted under the Dangerous Drugs (Temporary Provisions) Ordinance, 1954, which, inter alia, provides for the establishment of opium treatment centres, the appointment of officers, and the setting up of an advisory committee. The main centre on St. John’s Island was opened for the treatment of male addicts in February 1955. At the same time “C” Hall, the female prison and the hospital in the local prison on Singapore Island were gazetted as opium treatment centres, since addicts were kept there.

The Advisory Committee is an important link in this whole experiment. The offender, while on remand, is checked with a view to finding out the possibilities of rehabilitation. The reports of the medical and rehabilitation officers are laid before the Advisory Committee, consisting of the superintendent and medical officer of the Opium Treatment Centre and a rehabilitation officer. If it is found necessary that the offenders would benefit by admission to the centre, the Committee makes a recommendation accordingly to the magistrate, who, if he concurs, orders the addict’s detention in the centre for an undetermined period not exceeding twelve months. Otherwise, the offender is sentenced to three months’ imprisonment. Sentences under the existing legislation are mandatory, but there is an amendment being considered to provide for sentences to be discretionary.

The Advisory Committee considers a person’s suitability for treatment from the following aspects:
1. Age limit : 50 years, in general, but many cases are accepted up to the age of 55.
2. Disease : Active cases of organic disease, etc., are not accepted.
3. General physical condition : Chronic debility and extreme emaciation may be causes of rejection.
4. Length of addiction : Preference is given to more recent addicts.
5. Environment : If the addict is socially or thoroughly an undesirable character, he may be rejected for treatment.

The Opium Treatment Centre at St. John’s Island consists of twelve huts. They are used as follows: carpenters’ workshop, tailors’ workshop and laundry, rattan workshop, hospital, office and store, and attendants’ barracks. The remaining six huts have accommodation for inmates. (The maximum capacity of each hut is forty beds.)

On admission after withdrawal treatment, which is usually completed within three weeks in the remand prison on Singapore Island, the addict is interviewed by the superintendent, and provided with clothing, bedding, etc., all his personal belongings being taken from him. He is seen by a medical officer, either on admission or on the following morning. He is admitted to the sick bay, where he is detained for a minimum period of a week, and given extra food, including milk and eggs. At the end of the week, he is again seen by the medical officer, and if found fit for light duty is given a choice of acquiring knowledge and skill in several different trades, including carpentry, tailoring, rattan work, cooking, gardening and laundering.

While in the centre, the addicts are given the usual prison diet plus an extra 4 oz. of rice or wheat. If it is considered that any inmate should have additional nourishment such as eggs or milk – he is re-admitted to the sick bay. It is interesting to note that in only one case has there been a failure to gain weight during the period of detention. The average weight gained has been 13 lb.

It has been found that the inmates in the centre are very happy to be employed, and there have been few, if any, breaches of discipline. The rehabilitation officers visit the centre regularly, and keep in touch with each individual’s progress.

Though the addict is sentenced, as a rule, to be detained for a period of twelve months, it has been found that most of the inmates are fit to be released after a period of from six to seven months; and it has been noted that at the end of this period most of them realize that the addiction has gone. The rehabilitation officer ensures that they have employment waiting for them on release. Subsequent follow-up has shown that, in the case of skilled labourers, the majority stay in the employment which has been secured for them, and though the general trend is for unskilled labour to remain in employment, many change their jobs. However, the limited statistics so far available do not permit any firm conclusions. All business firms and branches of the services have been most sympathetic in taking the former addict employees back on the recommendation of the rehabilitation officers. There has been no instance of a firm’s refusing to re-employ such persons on discharge.

At the outset, it was considered that probably fifty per cent of the addicts appearing before the Advisory Committee might be found suitable for admission to the centre. So far, 396 males and 16 females have been released on licence, and the rehabilitation officers visit them regularly. There have been six known cases of relapse among the males, but the period is as yet too short for any conclusion to be drawn.

The follow-up of the released addict provides a problem. After a period of about three months or so all the addicts are referred to the medical officer for a check-up. It is not easy to diagnose a relapse. In most cases, however, addicts were able to keep away from the drug for a varying period of time; relapses if they do occur, generally come after a period of a few months, by which time the licence has expired, and past addicts are no longer obliged to attend for check-up. However, a number of patients do present themselves, long before their turn is due, seeking medical advice on minor complaints, and in some cases for help in the matter of finding work. A few have brought their personal and family problems to the doctor, and there have been a few who brought their addict companions for help or for admission as volunteers to the centre.

From the inception of this rehabilitative centre up to the end of 1956, a total of 425 patients have undergone rehabilitation and have been discharged. Out of all these, six persons were arrested a second time on a charge of possession of prepared opium or of possession of opium-smoking utensils. This does not mean that only 6 out of the 425 had relapsed into opium addiction. At the present time, it is not possible to make any exact estimate of the number who, having undergone treatment, have completely freed themselves from addiction. There is, however, ample evidence to suggest that the present procedure is well worth while.It has now been decided under section 1 (2) of the Dangerous Drugs (Temporary Provisions) Ordinance (cap. 138) to extend the operation of the ordinance until 8 February 1958. This will mean that the centre will run for at least another year. During 1956, the centre continued to prove its value. Many tributes have been paid to the establishment, including one from the World Health Organization.

The question of whether the centre should be made permanent and be expanded to provide for all opium addicts is being examined in some detail, and it is hoped that it will be possible to reach a decision within six months. The representations made by the Chinese Advisory Committee will be borne in mind while the review is being made.

The approximate cost of an accommodation hut for forty persons is 25,000 Malayan dollars, and as there are at present twelve such huts at the centre; the estimated cost of accommodation blocks is 300,000 Malayan dollars.






The soon to reopen Reflections at Bukit Chandu

3 09 2021

Among the places in which the echoes of a battle fought eight decades ago can still be heard is a point on Pasir Panjang Ridge that has since been named Bukit Chandu. It was where the final acts of heroism and sacrifice were enacted early in the afternoon of Valentine’s Day 1942 – at the culmination of a fierce two-day battle across the ridge we know today as Kent Ridge. The site today, is right next to where an interpretive centre “Reflections at Bukit Chandu” (RBC) can be found. Housed in a colonial bungalow of 1930s vintage, the centre recalls the battle and the acts of bravery of those defending the ridge. Having been closed for a revamp since October 2018, the centre is due to reopen at the end of next week.

Set up in 2002, the focus of RBC has been the retelling the story of the Malay Regiment and the stout but vain defence it put up on Pasir Panjang Ridge in what was one of the last major battles to be fought before Singapore’s fall during the Second World War. The regiment, formed in Port Dickson as an “experimental regiment”, played a key role in holding off the vastly superior and battle hardened Imperial Japanese Army troops as part of the 1st Malaya Infantry Brigade over two days; with its survivors taking a last stand at Point 226, as Bukit Chandu was identified as. A name now well known to us, Lieutenant Adnan Saidi, a war hero in both Malaysia and in Singapore, was also associated with the battle. Lt Adnan led a platoon of 42 of the regiment’s men and was among those who made that last stand. He would pay the ultimate price for refusing to remove his uniform after the Japanese overran his position in the cruelest of fashions. Hung upside down from a tree, Lt Adnan was bayonetted to death.

A view of the unique segmented arches that are a feature of the bungalow’s architecture.

The revamp sees little change to the central thrust of the centre, which is in remembering the Malay Regiment and the heroics of men such as Lt Adnan. Where change is seen, is in the way the story is told. An immersive 5-minute video projection now sees the battle is relived as part of the “Bukit Chandu: Battle Point 226” exhibition that sees the ground floor the the RBC now dedicated to. Along with this, the revamp also adds another dimension to the centre in providing greater context to the bungalow in which RBC is housed in, which was apparently built as part of a cluster of residences for senior members of staff of an opium or chandu packing plant established at the foot of the hill (after which the hill was named). To provide a more complete picture of the area’s rich history, exhibits found in the house and on its grounds have been added to tell the story of Pasir Panjang.

The headdress of the Malay Regiment with the badge.

For those familiar with the RBC prior to its revamp, one change that will be quite glaring as one enters its grounds, is the missing “mural”. In place of the “mural” – a replica of an oil painting by Malaysian artist Hoessein Enas that depicted the Battle of Pasir Panjang that was suspended across a segmented arch – is the revamped centre’s main entrance. Also noticeable will be the re-sited bronze sculpture dedicated to the Malay Regiment, which now has a more prominent position on the grounds, across from the entrance. Heading inside, the entrance lobby beckons, beyond which the “Bukit Chandu: Battle Point 226” exhibition begins. First up is an introduction to the Malay Regiment and its formation, presented in the exhibition’s first section “The Malay Regiment”. Rare footage of the Malay Regiment and of Lt Adnan undergoing training drills can be viewed here, as well as the regiment’s specially designed uniforms, weapons and kit items (which we are told were very well maintained by the regiment’s soldiers).

The (new) entrance to the centre.

The next section “Into Battle” is where the immersion into the battle takes place through a 5-minute video projection. Here a map on the floor traces the advance of the Japanese across the ridge over the course of the 13th and 14th of February 1942. Also on display in this section are items that were carried by both the Malay regiment’s soldiers as well as the Japanese. Spent rounds from the battle, dug up around the ridge by a resident in the 1970s, are also on display.

In the next section “Aftermath”, a bronze bust of Lt Adnan and a tin cup that belonged to Lt Ibrahim Sidek that was donated by his widow, are on display together with the names of those who fell in the battle. Lt Ibrahim is among the names on the wall, having also been killed by the Japanese for refusing to remove his uniform. His tin cup sits on display at a stand fitted with a speaker through which an excerpt of an interview with his widow in Malay can be played back.

The bronze bust of Lt Adnan and the tin cup that belonged to Lt Ibrahim Sidek.

Up the stairs on the bungalow’s second level, one comes to a verandah. Turning left along this is where the room containing an exhibition “Packing Chandu” can be found. It is one of several sections of the centre in which the bungalow’s and the area’s past can be rediscovered. In this section, an attempt is made to re-create the machinery of the chandu packing plant. Tin tubes, in which two-hoons of opium were sealed in as part of an effort to stem the “illegal” distribution of opium (on which the colonial government maintained a monopoly), along with scales are found next to the “machinery”. Paraphernalia connected to the packing and use of opium, photographs and leaflets connected to the opposition by prominent members of the community to the sale of opium, are also on display.

Packing Chandu.

At the centre of the verandah, “The Lounge” can be found. This recalls how the bungalow was used and lived in. The house, which is similar in design to many pre-war colonial bungalows built by the Public Works Department, features generous openings for ventilation and light, as well as verandahs. The lounge, an extension of the verandah, would have had great views of sea at Pasir Panjang. It would also have served as a living room and was where the house’s occupants would have chilled-out in during cool sea-breeze ventilated evenings. On display in “The Lounge”, are objects found during archeological digs around the house. These include a broken piece of Marseilles roof tile, as well as several other objects unrelated to the house. Cards from which the history of Bukit Chandu and Pasir Panjang is told through archival photographs, will also be on display.

The verandah and “The Lounge”.

The history of Pasir Panjang will also be discovered “On The Lawn”, through two installations laid out on the grounds of RBC. The first takes the form of a bronze replica of a boat used by the Orang Laut (who once inhabited the Singapore Strait), and this relates to Longyamen or Dragon’s Teeth Gate – the rocky outcrop that marked the entrance to what is now Keppel Harbour and appears in Chinese navigational maps of the 14th century. The second installation is a bronze pineapple cart, which recalls a more recent past when the ridge was home to Tan Kim Seng’s vast pineapple plantation. The plantation was well known for the superior quality of pineapples that it produced.

An installation on The Lawn – a replica of a Orang Laut boat.
Recalling Tan Kim Seng’s pineapple plantation.

The refreshing revamp now places the RBC back on the map of must-visit locations that will help us develop a better appreciation of the past, and more specifically, the sacrifice made by the men of the Malay Regiment (along with the others who fought alongside them including members of the 2nd Loyal Regiment, the 44th Indian Brigade and machine gunners from the 2/4th Machine Gun Battalion of the Australian Imperial Force). A visit to the centre will not be complete without a walk along at least part of the ridge. Across Pepys Road from the RBC lies the entrance to the canopy walk leading to Kent Ridge Park, which provides some wonderful views of the Alexandra Park area and provide an appreciation of the difficult terrain across which the battle was fought and the conditions that the troops defending the ridge must have faced.

The bronze sculpture dedicated to the Malay Regiment.

Reflections at Bukit Chandu reopens on 9 September 2021. It will be open from Tuesdays to Sundays from 9.30am to 5.30pm (last admission is 4.30 pm). Admission is free for all Singaporeans and Permanent Residents. Admission charges do apply to tourists and information on this is available at the centre’s website.


Opening and Opening Weekend Information

To commemorate the reopening of RBC, all visitors will enjoy free admission from 9 to 26 September 2021. Singapore Citizens and Permanent Residents will continue to enjoy complimentary admission beyond this period. 

The opening weekend for RBC will take place from 11 to 12 September, which also coincides with the anniversary of the surrender of the Japanese on 12 September 1945. Visitors can look forward to a self-guided scavenger hunt through the RBC galleries and complimentary live-streamed tours by the curators of RBC and Changi Chapel and Museum on Facebook Live.

(See also: https://www.nhb.gov.sg/bukitchandu/whats-on/programmes).

Visitors are encouraged to pre-book their museum admission tickets and sign up for the opening weekend programmes ahead of their visit. Please visit www.bukitchandu.gov.sg for the latest updates on the museum. 


More photographs of RBC








A walk along the ridge: Commemorating the Battle of Pasir Panjang

14 02 2011

I took a walk with a group of about 50 yesterday morning, along a part of Singapore that I frequent only because of visits I make from time-to-time to the National University of Singapore (NUS) in the course of my work, and in doing so, I learnt quite a lot about the area where one of the fiercest battles took place as the impregnable fortress that the colonial masters of Singapore had thought the island was, capitulated to the invading Japanese Imperial Army in the dark days of the February of 1942. The walk had in fact been one that takes place on an annual basis to commemorate the battle, the Battle of Pasir Panjang, with took place over the 13th and 14th of February, in the final hours before General Percival did the unthinkable, being made to take a march of shame up the hill on which General Yamashita had set up shop at the Ford Factory, in an act of surrender that took place on the 15th of February. The walk was organised by a volunteer group, the Raffles Museum Toddycats of the Raffles Museum of Biodiversity Research, Department of Biological Sciences, Faculty of Science, NUS and was led by the Siva whose intimate knowledge of the history as well as the flora and fauna of the area was supplemented by Dr Lai Chee Kien, of the Architecture Department who shared his insights on the architectural aspects of the NUS and in a few other areas as well.

Walking up Kent Ridge as the rising sun made an appearance. A solemn reminder of the occasion of the 13th of February 1942 when the when the 18th Division of Imperial Forces of the Land of the Rising Sun mounted their attack on what was then known as Pasir Panjang Ridge.

The walk which started at the University Cultural Centre, close to a corner of the rectangular area where the battle was enacted, at what is now the intersection of Clementi Road and the Ayer Rajah Expressway, began with a short introduction and a walk eastwards up Kent Ridge Crescent to the sight of the rising sun, perhaps as a solemn reminder of the battle during which the forces of the Land of the Rising Sun overran the determined but outnumbered defenders of the Malay Regiment that set out to defend the geographical feature that is now known to us as Kent Ridge, and continued along the length of the ridge eastwards towards what is now known as Bukit Chandu. Along the way, our guide Siva was not only able to share his knowledge of the battle as it played out, but also on some history of the area, the etymology of Kent Ridge and Marina Hill, as well as on the flora and fauna of the area.

Along the way, our expert guide Siva, was able to share many different facets of Kent Ridge, including on its flora and fauna.

The Simpoh Air and Resam Fern are fast growing plants commonly found on Kent Ridge as well as much of Singapore taking over much of the land that is cleared. The leaves of the Simpoh Air are used to wrap Tempeh.

The Battle of Pasir Panjang, sometimes referred to as the battle of Pasir Panjang Ridge, involved an invasion force of some 13,000 troops of the first wave of invading Japanese forces of the 18th Division sweeping down from the west towards the city. The ridge was defended by the remnants of the Malay Regiment, in which the origins of today’s Malaysian Armed Forces lie in, a poorly trained and ill prepared group of men who had been tasked to defend the approach to the ridge, the Gap but instead bore the brunt of the thrust of the invasion force. The accounts of this battle are well documented on the wonderful resource page that the Toddycats have put up, which can be found at this link, as well as in a newspaper report in the Straits Times of 13 February 1967 entitled “Fire and Death on Opium Hill” (on the occasion of the 25th Anniversary of the Battle).

Kent Ridge features many wonderful bungalows that would once have housed military personnel on a featured that gave a commanding view of the western coastline and area around the ridge.

Much of the land around was used for plantations of among other plants, included rubber trees and nutmeg, and has since been taken over by Secondary Forest.

One of the interesting reminders of the military past of the ridge is an outpost, a collection of four flat roofed buildings that served as a lookout point over the southward facing slopes of the ridge. The roofs made the cluster of buildings, which are set on three levels, easily camouflaged. Much of the area is inaccessible to the public as the buildings are in dilapidated state and it was a treat for me to see the buildings. Peeking into some of the rooms of the buildings, it was easy to identify the functions of the rooms as well as to recognise that the lookout would have been self-sufficient. There was one room that was obviously used as a kitchen and another with the remains of an old bathtub – but other than that, very little evidence of anything else remains.

One of the interesting remnants of the military past is the Outpost, a collection of four buildings that served as a lookout point, set up on three levels on the southward facing slopes of the ridge at Prince Edward Point.

The buildings of the Outpost feature flat roofs that can be easily be camouflaged.

A stairway providing communication between two of the three levels.



Another interesting set of facts that came out of the walk was the sharing by Dr Lai on the architecture of the NUS and the thinking behind some of the features which the architect behind the NUS shared with him. Among the interesting facts was one revolving around the use of over burnt bricks and the use of the primary colours for the features: yellow for the communication channels that provided the links to the various parts of the NUS laid over the ridge; red for the handrails – the orginals of which have mostly been replaced; and blue for features such as doors.

Following not so much the yellow brick road, but the yellow ceiling is a sure way around the NUS.

One of the last remaining original red iron railings ….

Another view of the ridge …

Another remnant of the past?

Moving east to the area which was known as the Gap, where South Buona Vista Road meets Kent Ridge Road, Siva provided the evidence of origins of the name Kent Ridge and Marina Hill just across the road, on which Kent Ridge Park now sits. A plaque commemorating the visit of HRH the Duchess of Kent, Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark, and her son the Duke of Kent, Prince Edward of Kent stands at the corner, telling us of the visit of the Duchess and the Duke on 3 October 1952 and the naming of the ridge after the visit of the royal pair as well as Marina Hill after the Duchess. The commemorative plaque is due to be shifted from its original position as there are plans to widen the road.

Siva speaking about the plaque commemorating the visit of HRH the Duchess of Kent, Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark, and her son the Duke of Kent, Prince Edward of Kent.

A close-up of the commemorative plaque which provides the evidence of the etymology of Kent Ridge as well as Marina Hill. It was in honour of the visit on 3 October 1952 that the plaque was laid on 23 February 1954 and that the name of Pasir Panjang Ridge was changed to Kent Ridge.

Across South Buona Vista Road, part of the ridge had to be skirted around due to it being occupied by the premises of the Defence Science Organisation – but we were able to continue further down to where a creek was behind Normanton Park where we were shown the Gelam tree, a member of the Eucalyptus family, also know as Kayu Putih – its oil is used for medicinal purposes and bark is apparently used as caulking material in traditional wooden boat building. It was from here that we made our way back up the ridge to where Kent Ridge Park sits.

Two of the participants in the walk near Marina Hill.

Part of the creek near Normanton Park.

Guide Airani showing the leaves of the Gelam Tree.

The bark of the Gelam is used as caulking material in traditional wooden boat building.

Scenes of autumn in Singapore?

The thin tree trunks of the secondary forest in the area.

Back up on the ridge at Kent Ridge Park, we were able to take in the commanding view which made the ridge an important military asset, and we made our way (some of us, muscles aching) then to our intended destination, Bukit Chandu, via a canopy walk that provides a wonderful northwards view beyond the ridge as well as of the forest below (as well as of some of the colourful inhabitants of the forest that inlcuded a Green Crested Lizard). And after what seemed like a very long walk some five hours after we set off, we arrived at midday at Bukit Chandu or Opium Hill, named after an opium processing plant that had featured at the foot of the hill – the scene of the final stand on the 14th of February 1942 of C Company of the 1st Battalion of the Malay Regiment and on which the Reflections at Bukit Chandu Museum stands as a reminder of the valiant efforts of the men of the Malay Regiment. Leaving the hill, it wasn’t the sore muscles that made the biggest impression, but the overload of information provided by the guides and the great sense of appreciation for the men who fought so gallantly in defence of freedom.

The flight of stairs back up to the ridge.

The group at the top of the ridge.

The ridge at Marina Hill provides a commanding view of the western harbour.

As well of the reclamation works that are extending Singapore’s southern shores.

A memorial plaque commemorating the Battle of Pasir Panjang at Kent Ridge Park.

The view north-east from the canopy walk from Kent Ridge Park to Bukit Chandu.

The canopy walk.

A resident of the ridge, a Green Crested Lizard, says hello.


Resources on the Battle of Pasir Panjang and on Kent Ridge:

A Pasir Panjang/Kent Ridge Heritage

Fire and Death on Opium Hill

Reflections at Bukit Chandu

The Battle of Pasir Panjang Revisted


More blog postings on the walk:

Fifty people and two dogs on the Battle of Pasir Panjang Commemorative Walk, by N. Sivasothi a.k.a. Otterman, on Raffles Museum Toddycats!

The walk to commemorate The Battle of Pasir Panjang! by Leone Fabre on “my life in Singapore”.


The next Battle of Pasir Panjang Commemorative Walk would take place on 12 February 2017. For more information and to signup, please click on this link.